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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. But, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.